My 6-Week Solo RV Adventure Through the Florida Keys: What I Wish I'd Known Before Going
Written by Nancy Carter of Making My Own Lane
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The Florida Keys Blew My Mind (And Nearly Melted It)
Okay, I'm just going to say it - the Florida Keys are the trip of a lifetime, but nobody tells you what it's really like to RV there for an extended period of time, in the summer.
Just seven hours south of Orlando, but it feels like you've driven to another planet. I mean, when you're cruising down the Overseas Highway with the Atlantic Ocean on your left and the Gulf of Mexico on your right, pinching yourself because you’re finally really there. And when you finally get to Key West? You're only 90 miles from Cuba. Let that sink in.
There are over 60 keys stretching 160 miles, and most of them you can only reach by boat. But the ones you can drive to? Pure magic.
I was lucky enough to spend six whole weeks exploring every corner I could reach in my RV. Could you do it faster? Sure, a week would hit the highlights. But trust me, you'll want more time once you get there.
When to Go (And Why I Chose Summer)
I rolled into the Keys in late May, and let me tell you - it was HOT. Like, 94 degrees during the day and 84 at night hot. And it only got worse from there.
But, summer is actually genius for RV travel if you can handle the heat. The crowds were so much smaller than the October-to-April madness. I could actually find campground spots without booking six months ahead, and the locals had time to chat instead of being overwhelmed by tourists.
The reality check: Between 1 PM and 7 PM, you're basically trapped in air conditioning. I did all my exploring super early or late evening. But honestly? Those sunrise and sunset adventures were some of the best parts of my trip.
RV Camping Costs (Prepare Your Wallet)
Let's talk money because the sticker shock is real:
State Parks: $16-$42 per night (reasonable!)
Private RV Parks: $100-$300 per night (ouch!)
My secret weapon: Thousand Trails membership got me into two different parks for just $20/night
...that Thousand Trails membership literally paid for itself on this trip alone.
The One Road Reality (This is Important!)
Here's something that'll blow your mind: there's literally ONE road in and out of the Keys. US Route 1, that's it. If there's construction, an accident, or bad weather, you're stuck. No joke.
While I was there, they had construction at night with signs warning you couldn't pass through on certain days and times. I started planning my driving during daylight hours only - partly because of construction, but also because some of those bridges aren't well-lit, and honestly, they're a bit nerve-wracking at night.
Oh, and get this - they actually have different speed limits for day and night! I'd never seen that before.
Getting Your RV Ready (Learn From My Near-Disasters)
Your RV better be ready for heat and wind. Those bridges, especially the Seven Mile Bridge, are almost always windy. I'm talking hold-onto-your-steering-wheel windy.
My must-have list (wish I'd known this beforehand):
Mosquito repellent (the bugs are no joke)
Reef-friendly sunscreen - and buy more than you think you need
A rock-solid AC system
Reflectix for windows (game changer for keeping cool)
Weather radio (storms pop up fast)
Where to Stay and What to Do in the Middle Keys
I based myself at Fiesta Key in Long Key for three weeks, and it was perfect for exploring what I now call the real heart of the Keys - that stretch between Islamorada and Marathon.
Marathon's got about 10,000 residents, and Islamorada has around 7,000 locals who've figured out the secret to living in paradise. What I loved about this area is it's not trying to be Key West or Key Largo - it has its own authentic, laid-back vibe.
You can see the full campground tour here.
The Turtle Hospital - Life Changing Experience
2396 Overseas Hwy, Marathon
This place isn't just some tourist trap - it's a working rehabilitation center that's been saving sea turtles for 35 years. They've treated over 2,000 turtles with a 70% release rate. These aren't just numbers; these are individual animals with names and personalities.
The parking is great for RVs (there's even an overflow area), tours cost about $35, but you absolutely need reservations. This tour will change how you see ocean conservation forever. I'm not being dramatic - it really will.
Sombrero Beach - Reality vs. Expectations
Sombrero Beach Rd, Marathon
Everyone said this was one of the top beaches in the Florida Keys, and they weren't wrong. It's also one of the few actual white sand beaches here (most Keys beaches are rocky or have that imported sand).
Pro Traveler Tip: Here's what the websites got wrong - parking isn't free! I paid $5 for my hour there. Though I'll give them credit, they have this cool system where you enter your phone number and get a text reminder when your time's almost up.
The water was crystal clear, perfect for snorkeling, but there was quite a bit of seaweed from the previous week's storm. The staff was working hard to clear it, but just know that storms can affect beach conditions for days after.
Crane Point - My Accidental Favorite Discovery
5550 Overseas Hwy, Marathon
This wasn't even on my original must-see list. I just stumbled across this 63-acre nature preserve when I was poking around Marathon one day. The museum was closed for upgrades, but there were historic buildings and nature trails to explore.
I wasn't even sure if I'd go back, but I ended up booking the 10 AM tour for the next day - and I'm so glad I did!
The golf cart tour ($17.95) was perfect for a hot June day. A mile walk in that heat? No thank you. The 1.5-hour guided tour covers the whole preserve, and once you're in, you can stay all day. They even rent kayaks at the point.
But here's the crazy part - they have these "doctor fish" that give pedicures! These little guys nibble away dead skin, and it's the most bizarre, ticklish, oddly relaxing thing I've ever experienced. Who knew you could get a spa treatment from fish in the middle of a nature preserve? And it's included in the tour price!
You've also got historic homes like the Crane House and Adderley House, plus bird rehabilitation at the Florida Keys Wild Bird Center. I'll leave the rest for you to discover on your own.
Herby's Bar and Chowder House
2001 Overseas Hwy, Marathon
This is the definition of authentic Keys dining - exactly the kind of place locals hope tourists don't find. The portions are huge, the local beer selection is fantastic, and the vibe is perfectly Keys.
We went all out: pork belly burnt ends, smoked fish dip, conch fritters, then the cheeseburger with pineapple fries and poutine fries. The food was incredible. And check out their t-shirts - they're really clever.
Keys Fisheries
3502 Gulfview Ave, Marathon
This isn't just a restaurant - it's a working seafood company that's been family-owned for over 70 years. The parking's a little tight for RVs, so I wouldn't recommend it. But the seafood was probably swimming in these waters yesterday.
Their famous lobster reuben is absolutely ridiculous. I mean, who puts lobster on a reuben? Keys Fisheries does, and it works so well it's become their signature dish. There's even a guessing game - try to guess how many lobster reubens they sell each month and win a free one plus a t-shirt.
What Surprised Me About the Middle Keys
The Middle Keys struck me as surprisingly developed and tourist-friendly. Cell service was excellent, grocery stores were easy to find, and those sunsets? Simply amazing. It felt accessible but still authentically Keys.
Lower Keys: A Completely Different World
After crossing the Seven Mile Bridge (what an experience in an RV with those crosswinds!), I entered a completely different world. Keep your eyes peeled for Fred the Tree on the northbound side as you cross - it's become a local landmark!
I based myself at Sunshine Key RV Resort just north of Big Pine Key for another three weeks of sun and fun, and it was perfect for exploring everything south of the Seven Mile Bridge. The best part? I could walk just 50 feet to the Gulf and paddleboard to my heart's content.
[For a video review of the campground, click here.]
The Lower Keys felt completely different - more remote, wilder. Cell service was still excellent (actually the best I'd had in my entire time on the road!), but grocery stores and restaurants became scarcer with way less selection than the Middle Keys. It's quieter down here, with incredible natural beauty everywhere you look.
What to Do in the Lower Keys
While there are 11 state parks in the Florida Keys, this was the only one I visited. Some weren't on my travel route, and others were partially closed for restoration. But Bahia Honda is absolutely not to be missed!
This place is perfect for everything - bicycling, hiking, swimming, birding, paddleboarding, kayaking, fishing, and snorkeling. You can camp here overnight or just spend the day exploring the walking trails up to the old Bahia Honda railroad bridge. Drive north on Silver Palm Road for gorgeous ocean scenery and another beach with parking.
Cost: $4.50 entrance fee for single passenger vehicle, $8 for 2-8 people (unless you have an annual Florida State Park Pass - totally worth it if you're hitting multiple parks).
No Name Key - End of the World Vibes
Accessible via concrete bridge off Route 1 near Big Pine Key
Drive about 3 miles into what feels like the middle of nowhere. Keep your eyes peeled for the tiny Key deer - you're right in the middle of their habitat! If you drive to the very end of the road, there's this peaceful spot where you genuinely feel like you've found the end of the world.
Hungry or thirsty? Stop at the No Name Pub with their motto "Nice place if you can find it." I found it, but it was closed when I stopped by.
Bridge Walking at Little Duck Key - My Secret Sunset Spot
Mile Marker 37 on US 1
There are so many pull offs where you can stop and walk out on the old Seven Mile Bridge. Originally, I planned to ride my scooter south from the north side to Pigeon Key, but I found this entrance on the south side that was just as good and way less crowded, with just a few fisherman casting off the bridge.
I drove about 5 minutes north of my campground, across from the Veterans Memorial Park on Little Duck Key. I'm not sure if small scooters like mine were technically allowed, but nobody stopped me, and I rode out to the end of the bridge.
The water was crystal clear - I could see huge Bahama Starfish and spotted Sea Hares (sea slugs). But here's the real secret: do this right before sunset. The uninterrupted view over the Gulf of Mexico creates one of the most beautiful sunsets you'll ever see.
Horseshoe Beach - Hidden Magic
Mile Marker 35 on US 1
This place was formed from an old quarry where coral was used to build the Overseas Highway, and it's absolutely magical. You'll find a boulder-lined shoreline bordered by mangroves, some picnic tables, a few fishermen, and perfect spots to park your chair and soak in the beauty. You can carefully walk out over the rock and coral to the end of the reef.
This was another completely unexpected find and honestly one of the prettiest places I discovered in the entire Keys.
Where to Eat in the Lower Keys
Herby's Bar and Chowder House (Again!)
2001 Overseas Hwy, Marathon
This place was so incredible that I went back again! Yes, it's technically north of the Seven Mile Bridge, but once you cross that bridge going south, restaurants get much harder to find.
Castaway Waterfront Restaurant - The Lionfish Adventure
1406 Gulfview Ave, Marathon
Another "north of the bridge" stop, but it had lionfish - and that was on my bucket list! This place was tricky to find, so definitely plug it into your GPS and trust it, even when you're convinced it's wrong.Plan to spend some money here, especially if you try the fantastically fresh sushi or want to tackle the lionfish or oysters.
Pro Traveler Tips:
Happy hour starts at 1 PM with amazing specials
If you want the lionfish sushi roll, get there early! As a bonus, they fry up the head and tail for presentation. Don't be afraid to eat the fish cheeks - they're delicious!
What I Loved Most About the Lower Keys
The Lower Keys had that Jimmy Buffett vibe I'd been searching for - laid back, friendly people, no rush to be anywhere at a certain time. Plus, I had the absolute best cell service of my entire road trip here.
Key West: The Conch Republic Madness
No Keys trip is complete without Key West, but when it's 97 degrees, you absolutely need a strategy! I used my RoadTrippers app to create an itinerary hitting everything I wanted to see before the heat became unbearable.
I paid to park at the Butterfly and Nature Conservatory near my first stop (smart move for guaranteed parking).
The Southernmost Point Buoy - 90 Miles from Cuba
Corner of South Street and Whitehead Street, Key West
The line for this iconic photo op forms quickly and can stretch pretty far back, so I wanted to knock this out early in the morning.
Pro Traveler Tip: If you don't want to wait in line, set up your shot from the side and snap it quickly when people change positions.
Hemingway House and the Famous Six-Toed Cats
907 Whitehead Street, Key West
Home to the legendary six (and seven!) toed cats - there were 58 cats total when I visited! The tour costs $19 for adults and lasts about 30 minutes, but you can stay as long as you want and explore on your own once you pay admission.
Hemingway is one of my favorite authors, and visiting his house inspired me to dig out my anthology of Hemingway works and start reading again. There's something magical about being where he created those timeless stories.
US Route 1 Mile Marker 0
Corner of Fleming Street and Whitehead Street, Key West
This is where Route 1 officially starts (or ends, depending on how you look at it). At 2,370 miles long, it stretches all the way from Key West to Fort Kent, Maine, along the Canadian border - making it the longest north-south road in the US.
Fun fact: Another epic north-south road is Route 41, running about 2,000 miles from Miami to Copper Harbor, Michigan.
My Walking Tour Strategy for Key West
Using my RoadTrippers app, I mapped out a route that included the Green Parrot Bar, Captain Tony's, and Sloppy Joe's (where I bought a t-shirt to replace one I'd purchased 30 years ago!) plus Harry S. Truman's Little White House.
These were mostly quick photo stops because honestly, after all that walking in 97-degree heat, I just wanted a cold drink and something to eat. It gives me plenty more to explore on my next Key West visit!
Where I Ate in Key West
DJ's Clam Shack - Triple D Approved!
629 Duval Street, Key West
Here's something funny - every restaurant I ate at in the Florida Keys turned out to be a Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives recommendation. I only realized this because each one proudly displayed their Triple D credentials!
DJ's didn't disappoint with a cold IPA and a Maine lobster roll that helped cool me down. It wasn't fancy - just tables and chairs with lovely fans that I positioned myself right next to. But the food was absolutely delicious.
I would have loved to try the Ipswich Fried Clam basket too. Definitely next time!
What Surprised Me Most About Key West
Okay, confession time - I'm not a fan of Key Lime Pie. I know, I know, it's practically sacrilege in Key West, but it's true!
What I absolutely loved was the amazing architecture - this incredible cross between Charleston and the Bahamas that creates such a unique visual experience.
You can read about why Key West is also called the Conch Republic here.
Solo RV Travel in the Florida Keys
Photography in the Keys became both my creative outlet and biggest challenge. Capturing those incredible water views often meant getting creative with tripod selfies or finding helpful strangers to take photos. The golden hour light here is absolutely magical.
But the best part about traveling solo? I found myself striking up conversations everywhere - small diners, lighthouse tours, visitor centers. These chats often led to the best tips: hidden paddleboarding spots, the perfect sunset viewing locations, local events and stories that never make it into guidebooks.
Apps That Saved My Sanity
Recreation.gov: For state park bookings and fees
Weather apps: Weather changes fast here and affects all your water plans
RoadTrippers: Perfect for finding those weird roadside gems
The Bottom Line
The Florida Keys offer everything from turtle rescue centers to fish pedicures, from white sand beaches to lionfish sushi adventures, to the most amazing sunsets you'll ever witness. What makes RV travel here special isn't just the destinations - it's the freedom to discover them at your own pace.
These aren't manufactured tourist experiences. These are real places run by real people who genuinely love sharing their piece of paradise with you. From the turtle hospital staff who know every animal's story to the locals at Herby's who made me feel like family (twice!), from the golf cart guide at Crane Point to the sushi chef proudly serving up lionfish at Castaways - the Keys are all about authentic connections.
The diversity absolutely blew me away. In the Middle Keys, you've got developed tourist amenities alongside authentic local culture. Cross the Seven Mile Bridge, and suddenly you're in Jimmy Buffett territory - laid back, remote, with that end-of-the-world feeling at places like No Name Key and Horseshoe Beach. Then there's Key West, where Ernest Hemingway's cats still roam and you can stand at Mile Marker 0 knowing you're as far south as you can drive in America.
The water colors alone - shifting between turquoise and deep blue on both the Atlantic and Gulf sides, filled with sea life from starfish to sea slugs to the doctor fish giving pedicures - create a visual feast you won't find anywhere else.
Six weeks wasn't too long. If anything, it made me realize how much more there is to discover. I'm already planning my return, but maybe during those cooler winter months when I won't melt walking around Key West!
From the Middle Keys' perfect blend of accessibility and authenticity, to the Lower Keys' remote natural beauty and that unbeatable Jimmy Buffett vibe, to Key West's unique mix of literary history and Conch Republic quirkiness - this journey proved that some of America's most incredible experiences are waiting right in our own backyard.
Want to follow more of my solo RV adventures? This is just one stop on my journey around America, proving that the best discoveries happen when you're brave enough to make your own lane.
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Other posts or videos you might like:
How Does Thousand Trails Really Work?
Florida Keys video adventures and campground reviews
About Making My Own Lane:
Hi there! I'm Nancy.
In 2023, I ditched my heels for hiking boots, sold my house, and decided to travel the US full time in my 2005 Lazy Daze Class C RV.
I love to share the places I travel to and what it's like to live in an RV full-time.
If you have ever thought about hitting the road and traveling in an RV, either in your free time or full time, you are in the right place!
Follow my solo RV adventures across America as I discover hidden gems, share practical travel tips, and prove that the best adventures often happen when you venture off the beaten path.